Should one avoid painting the Y stage assembly wooden parts? I painted the frame of the printer in an earlier stage, but was wondering about these parts too… Will painting them detract from building the stage (inserting magnets) or the efficacy of the printer?
It is ok to paint the Y stage. Do a test fit first so you know which parts not to paint. Don't paint any parts that overlap because you'll probably need to sand them down later. Paint the surfaces, avoid the holes.
This first picture of the parts needed shows 12 screws and nuts, but the text says only 6 are needed, and this seemed correct when I built the part. Would be nice to update the picture.
The other 6 nuts and bolts can be used to join the acrylic build surface to the build platform.
As that step is not documented it should probably documented here.
At least 2 operators have had a problem with the tolerances of the holes. I drilled out the wood after bolting down on one side. Someone else drilled out the acrylic instead.
Which of those two is the better and why is something that should be determined. Maybe the acrylic will be replaced faster and so that should be drilled. I chose the triplex because it was the more familiar material to drill.
I think the highlighted text should be changed.
From:
Make sure the magnets on the Y stage are flush with the top of the build platform.
To:
Make sure the magnets on the Y stage are flush with the top of the Y stage
Rather than "Use a small tool to push the magnets all the way to bottom of their holes", I did this
- Set up my stack of 10 magnets, keeping the orienting nut on one side
- Push 5 of the magnets into the top of the Y Stage, keeping them flush with the top
- FLIP the orienting nut to the other side of the stack
- Push the remaining magnets into the bottom of the build platform, keeping them flush with the bottom
This way it's easy to make them flush and I don't have to "push them all the way to the bottom."
You can of course make your acrylic stage easier to level with the "instant platform adjustment" hack ( http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4741 ) Put the acrylic stage onto the Y platform sideways,
( that is, so the side holes in the platform don't line up with the side holes on the plywood stage ).
Now you can drill an extra hole in the acrylic build platform to give yourself an X-direction siting post, as shown here ( http://www.flickr.com/photos/glantriff/5251886780/ ) and here ( http://www.flickr.com/photos/glantriff/5251886780/ ). Use the hole in the plywood stage as a template to make sure it's centered.
This makes it easy to center the plastruder head in X and Y on the build platform just by lining the screws up with the tip of the hot end. I found an English 7/64 drill bit gave me a hole just big enough to thread a #2 cap screw into — I found a couple of the short ( 5mm) screws shipped for motor mounts were
sufficient.
Actually, this turns out to be a Really Bad Idea. I'd delete it but I lack privilege. Stock G-code doesn't see the extra screw head, so when the Cupcake is laying down a big enough raft, it rams the hot-end into the screw, causing belts to skip and crashing your build.