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Ok, I'm starting to get to that point where I need a bit of expert help adjusting Skeinforge. What I
really need is a set of pathology and action photos. The author did a fairly good job here: http://wiki.makerbot.com/configuring-skeinforge, but I'm looking for more or similar examples. Something like this is what I saw, this is what I did. I don't really have the experience to know what I'm looking at or what to do with it.
It's for a different version of skeinforge but reading through this helped me a lot.. http://www.bitsfrombytes.com/wiki/index.php?title=Skeinforge#Craft. There are some decent pictures in there, too.
Is there some bit in particular you need help with?
the document you're looking for (a definitive visual guide to configuring skeinforge) has yet to be written, and with the versions changing and terminology changing, it's not an easy document to write. if i wasn't tied up with printing big projects i might take a crack at it.
The changes to the interface really are the killer.
Don't get me wrong - I'm appreciative that this software has been made available for the low, low price of $0 but the regularity that options come/go/move makes full documentation pretty nearly impossible.
Ok, here's where my inexperience comes in.
I'm building along, let's say the hand (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1288) the raft goes down well, the first layer goes down, perhaps a bit thick?, the second layer tries to lay down, and the head starts bouncing against cooled plastic, plowing through in places, deflected in others, suddenly it's laying down the pattern out of whack. This isn't right is it?
Remember, I'm set to the exact defaults specified in the above tutorial.
Ok, so, I'm figuring this is not good, nor is it normal, and I shut it down.
Back to printing 20mm cubes….
Layer 1:
Layer 2:
Eventually a little wad of plastic builds up int fore left corner that tracks through the build.
I scraped a bit on this cube but its still viisible.
Lastly, looking at some Skienforge notoes, I tried slowing down the feed rate and head. The end effect was consistent pausing of the feed at the same build spot. FlowRate 230 (vs 255 previous)/ Travel Feedrate=25(vs 55 previously).
I found: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2064 which seems like pretty practical observe this/do this approach.
Is that PLA or white ABS?
I tried slowing down the feed rate and head.
Do you mean flow rate or feed rate? Slowing down flow rate (PWM) means less plastic out of the nozzle. Slowing down feed rate (build platform speed) means giving the extruder more time to put down plastic at each spot - if you think you're getting too much plastic down, slowing feed rate down is backwards; you wnat to speed it up.
Travel Feedrate=25(vs 55 previously).
Travel feed rate is, I think, how fast X & Y move when the extruder isn't extruding. Just plain old Feed rate is the one you want to adjust here. For the pix above, I'd turn travel feed rate back up to 55 and add 5 to whatever your feed rate is.
What do you have for the width/thickness values and layer height?
KInda knew that saying I had the defaults from file such and such wouldn't help,
So how about a data dump from the important bits…
Carve:
Extrusion Width over Thickness (ratio): 1.45
Open File to be Carved
Import Coarseness (ratio): 1.0
Correct Mesh True
Unproven Mesh False
Infill Bridge Thickness over Layer Thickness (ratio): 1.0
Infill Bridge Width over Extrusion Width (ratio): 1.0
Infill in Direction of Bridges True
Layer Thickness (mm): 0.36
Layer Thickness over Precision (ratio): 10.0
windowPositionBehold Preferences 0+0
Speed:
Activate Speed: True
Bridge Feedrate Multiplier (ratio): 1.0
Extrusion Diameter over Thickness (ratio): 1.3
Feedrate (mm/s): 25.0
Open File to be Speeded
Do Not Add Flowrate False
Metric False
PWM Setting True
Flowrate PWM Setting (if PWM Setting is Chosen): 255.0
Orbital Feedrate over Operating Feedrate (ratio): 1.0
Perimeter Feedrate over Operating Feedrate (ratio): 1.0
Perimeter Flowrate over Operating Flowrate (ratio): 1.0
Support Flowrate over Operating Flowrate (ratio): 1.0
Travel Feedrate (mm/s): 55.0
windowPositionBehold Preferences 0+0
And please understand,
I'm very very newbie in the woods here.
This is a dump from file
:///home/crjones/replicatorg-0017/skeinforge/prefs/skeinforge/speed.csv
I'm making changes to those files with:
/home/crjones/replicatorg-0017/skeinforge/skeinforge.py
I see other prefs files in:
:///home/crjones/replicatorg-0017/skeinforge/prefs/cupcake-abs
Not sure how those get modified?
What about the stuff in Fill?
And what plastic are those pictures from? Is that PLA or the white ABS? (my monitor here at work sorta sucks.. I can't tell which it is)
edit:
The picture with the whole cube looks like too much plastic to me.. The quick way to fix that would be to turn up Feed Rate in Speed - add 5 to it and see how it works. I usually change by 5 until I get close then change by 2 until I get closer then 1 then 0.5. At that point, it's printing pretty damn nice.
The other pictures I can't really tell what's happening. It sorta looks like you're not getting enough plastic but I've seen that visual effect before when it's getting too much plasic. My rule of thumb is to run a finger over the top of the cube - if it's rough, it's too much plastic. If it's smooth but doesn't look right, it's too little plastic.
Higher feed rate (which is different than travel feed rate) = less plastic at a given spot. Lower feed rate = more plastic at a given spot.
You can also mess with flow rate and the various width/thickness numbers but changing feed rate will get you closer, faster.
FILL:
Diaphragm Period (layers): 999999
Diaphragm Thickness (layers): 0
Extra Shells on Alternating Solid Layer (layers): 1
Extra Shells on Base (layers): 3
Extra Shells on Sparse Layer (layers): 2
Grid Extra Overlap (ratio): 0.005
Grid Junction Separation Band Height (layers): 10
Grid Junction Separation over Octogon Radius At End (ratio): 0.0
Grid Junction Separation over Octogon Radius At Middle (ratio): 0.0
Open File to be Filled
Infill Begin Rotation (degrees): 45.0
Infill Begin Rotation Repeat (layers): 1
Infill Solidity (ratio): 0.2
Infill Odd Layer Extra Rotation (degrees): 90.0
Grid Hexagonal False
Grid Rectangular True
Line False
Interior Infill Density over Exterior Density (ratio): 0.9
Outside Extruded First True
Solid Surface Thickness (layers): 3
windowPositionBehold Preferences 0+0
RAFT:
Activate Raft: True
Add Raft Elevate Nozzle
Base Infill Density (ratio): 0.5
Base Layer Thickness over Layer Thickness: 1.0
Base Layers (integer): 1
Base Nozzle Lift over Half Base Layer Thickness (ratio): 0.4
Bottom Altitude: 0.1
Open File to be Rafted
Infill Overhang (ratio): 0.1
Interface Infill Density (ratio): 0.5
Interface Layer Thickness over Layer Thickness: 0.8
Interface Layers (integer): 0
Interface Nozzle Lift over Half Interface Layer Thickness (ratio): 0.5
Operating Nozzle Lift over Half Layer Thickness (ratio): 1.0
Raft Outset Radius over Extrusion Width (ratio): 15.0
Support Inset over Perimeter Extrusion Width (ratio): 0.0
No Support Material True
Support Material Everywhere False
Support Material on Exterior Only False
Support Minimum Angle (degrees): 60.0
Temperature Change Time Before Raft (seconds): 0.0
Temperature Change Time Before First Layer Outline (seconds): 0.0
Temperature Change Time Before Next Threads (seconds): 0.0
Temperature Change Time Before Support Layers (seconds): 0.0
Temperature Change Time Before Supported Layers (seconds): 0.0
Temperature of Raft (Celcius): 235.0
Temperature of Shape First Layer Outline (Celcius): 220.0
Temperature of Shape First Layer Within (Celcius): 220.0
Temperature of Shape Next Layers (Celcius): 220.0
Temperature of Support Layers (Celcius): 220.0
Temperature of Supported Layers (Celcius): 220.0
windowPositionRaft Preferences 58+46
As far as I know, this is all ABS plastic.
I'm using the default roll shipped with the bot,
But ordered 20# more from makerbot.
And again,
The thing scaring the hell out of me right now,
Is the head plowing through the previous layers,
And bouncing off off them.
Something is not good there.
Thats what happened int he first photo.
It laid down a base layer.
Looked to have buckled a bit.
Then the head tried to cross hatch against that.
And bounced when it hit the bumps.
I'd squish the raft down a bit more.. Right when it starts printing the raft, give the Z pulley on the top/front of the machine a bit of a turn to drop it down a little more. There's a good picture of what you want it to look like at the link you cited in the 1st post.
Try that plus changing the feed rate to 32 and see how things look. I think 32 is probably too high but it's better to have too little plastic and work towards getting more than to have too much plastic and work at getting less.
Oh, frack
I've been using command line to manage the skeinforge configuration…
I'm making changes to those files with:
/home/crjones/replicatorg-0017/skeinforge/skeinforge.py
I should have been using the edit interface provided from Replicator G!
I've been editing the Skeinforge configuration,
And Generating against the Cupcake-ABS configuation.
DUH DUH DUH
No wonder I haven't been getting anywhere!!!
May not be entirely accurate though.
I was able to tweak some numbers last night and have some effect.
Just not what I was expecting.
Just explains why my raft was printing 2 layers vs 1, and so on…
Told you I was noob.
Ok, this is where we are at.
Figured out I was setting the wrong profile.
So, pardon this long posting, but here's all the correct values…
Carve:
Format is tab separated preferences.
Open File to be Carved
Import Coarseness (ratio): 1.0
Correct Mesh True
Unproven Mesh False
Infill Bridge Thickness over Layer Thickness (ratio): 1.0
Infill Bridge Width over Extrusion Width (ratio): 1.0
Infill in Direction of Bridges True
Layer Thickness (mm): 0.35
Layer Thickness over Precision (ratio): 10.0
Fill:
Diaphragm Period (layers): 999999
Diaphragm Thickness (layers): 0
Extra Shells on Alternating Solid Layer (layers): 1
Extra Shells on Base (layers): 3
Extra Shells on Sparse Layer (layers): 2
Grid Extra Overlap (ratio): 0.005
Grid Junction Separation Band Height (layers): 10
Grid Junction Separation over Octogon Radius At End (ratio): 0.0
Grid Junction Separation over Octogon Radius At Middle (ratio): 0.0
Open File to be Filled
Infill Begin Rotation (degrees): 45.0
Infill Begin Rotation Repeat (layers): 1
Infill Solidity (ratio): 0.23
Infill Odd Layer Extra Rotation (degrees): 90.0
Grid Hexagonal False
Grid Rectangular True
Line False
Interior Infill Density over Exterior Density (ratio): 0.9
Outside Extruded First True
Solid Surface Thickness (layers): 3
Raft:
Activate Raft: True
Add Raft Elevate Nozzle
Base Infill Density (ratio): 0.5
Base Layer Thickness over Layer Thickness: 1.8
Base Layers (integer): 1
Base Nozzle Lift over Half Base Layer Thickness (ratio): 0.4
Bottom Altitude: 0.1
Open File to be Rafted
Infill Overhang (ratio): 0.1
Interface Infill Density (ratio): 0.4
Interface Layer Thickness over Layer Thickness: 1.0
Interface Layers (integer): 0
Interface Nozzle Lift over Half Interface Layer Thickness (ratio): 0.5
Operating Nozzle Lift over Half Layer Thickness (ratio): 1.0
Raft Outset Radius over Extrusion Width (ratio): 15.0
Support Inset over Perimeter Extrusion Width (ratio): 0.0
No Support Material True
Support Material Everywhere False
Support Material on Exterior Only False
Support Minimum Angle (degrees): 60.0
Temperature Change Time Before Raft (seconds): 0.0
Temperature Change Time Before First Layer Outline (seconds): 0.0
Temperature Change Time Before Next Threads (seconds): 0.0
Temperature Change Time Before Support Layers (seconds): 0.0
Temperature Change Time Before Supported Layers (seconds): 0.0
Temperature of Raft (Celcius): 230.0
Temperature of Shape First Layer Outline (Celcius): 220.0
Temperature of Shape First Layer Within (Celcius): 220.0
Temperature of Shape Next Layers (Celcius): 220.0
Temperature of Support Layers (Celcius): 220.0
Temperature of Supported Layers (Celcius): 220.0
Speed:
Activate Speed: True
Bridge Feedrate Multiplier (ratio): 1.0
Extrusion Diameter over Thickness (ratio): 1.3
Feedrate (mm/s): 29.5
Open File to be Speeded
Do Not Add Flowrate False
Metric False
PWM Setting True
Flowrate PWM Setting (if PWM Setting is Chosen): 255.0
Orbital Feedrate over Operating Feedrate (ratio): 1.0
Perimeter Feedrate over Operating Feedrate (ratio): 1.0
Perimeter Flowrate over Operating Flowrate (ratio): 1.0
Support Flowrate over Operating Flowrate (ratio): 1.0
Travel Feedrate (mm/s): 55.0
Now, I tried adjusting the Feedrate from 25.0 to 29.5 and this was the results:
Photo should be clickable for higher res.
It looked to be getting better at 29.5,
But then at 30 we started to get stalls.
This is where the pinchwheel would stop feeding,
The head would continue to move,
the some time later, up to a minute or tow,
the Pinchwheel would resume.
We tried printing the hand again from Thingiverse again (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1288)
And the bot ran into trouble on the first cross hatch.
It actually stallled, did not extrude, but went through the motions.
On the second cross hatch it bounced and ran into trouble.
(Ran into dried plastic and deflected the head)
We aborted at that point.
Looks like I still need to extrude less plastic,
But feed rates above 29 look to cause problems.
Any ideas?
Photo should be clickable for higher res.
Nope.
It's a bit hard to see the pictures but I think the 27-28mm/s ones looks best. What you're looking for is a smooth surface on top. You won't ever get it perfect but you can get it pretty nice.
The feed rate (platform speed) and extruder don't have much to do with each other, mechanically-speaking. My cupcake seems happy until I get over 40mm/s. After that, it gets a bit harder to get a nice, reliable print. I think that's more just the limits of my machine, though - some careful tweaks and I bet I could get close to 50.
If you really think that the higher feed rates is causing the extruder to do weird things, or the higher feed rate is just causing weird things in general, you probably have some sort of noise issue. Like, the thing is getting instructions so quickly it's having a hard time keeping up with all the different controllers.
Some random ideas:
- try a different port on the motherboard for the extruder cable
- if you have a cat6 enet patch cable, try that instead of the one that came with your bot
- twist your heater cable on the extruder
- make sure all the stepper/mobo plugs are seated nicely
- as much as possible, clean up the cable routing on the right side of the box - avoid cables crossing at right angles to each other
You can also try printing from the SD card.
Well, duh, maybe somewhere in the faq it should say, don't use lame ass dollar store cables! ;-)
I figured cat 5 was cat 5.
(My bot didn't come with no stink'n cables!)
Ok, she's gonna get the best shielded cat6 cables I can find.
Ok, I'd like to do some cable cleanup.
I'm figuring my cheapo cat 5's are ok for motor control for now.
I've got qty 10 - 2' cat 6's en route.
Makes sense that signal injection is causing glitching.
Just a basic question:
Am I ok to shorten the ribbon cables?
These suckers are way too long,
And I've got the extra molex connectors.
I don't see why not.
No 90 degree data crosses, got it.
Going to start strapping down cables.
Shielded Cat6 cable MIGHT help, but in case this hasn't been mentioned here - shielded cable don't do nothin if it's not tied down at at least one end. i.e. if you don't have shielded connectors that are properly tied down, then a shielded cable will float with any and all noise.
PLEASE someone correct me if I'm wrong.
Also - maybe someone knows - can you manually ground the shielding to make it WORTH going SHIELDED?
This article says basically what I was saying:
http://www.connectworld.net/shielded-cables.html
in brief:
Full Shielding - both ends are enclosed within RFI shielding (metal boxes) and the cable shield is connected to this electrically.
Partial Shielding - if no shielding exists on either end then tie only ONE end of the cable's shielding to ground.
No Shielding - if it is not possible to connect the shield to either end, it appears there still may be some benefit - so perhaps I was wrong? however full or partial shielding are oodles better, AFAIK
Technically?
The twists inside the cat-5/6 cable are designed to deflect histerisis losses or noise injection by passively rotating the cable through all possible configurations. Cat 6 is designed to be more resistive to noise than Cat 5. Typically Cat5 or Cat6 is sold UTP or Unshielded Twisted Pair.
You are correct, shielded cable (STP) contains an extra layer of conductive material around the plenium (non conductive core.) This is connected to both sides of the connection via a specialized metal male metal connector. This assumes that the RJ-45 female connector has a connection to ground as well. Typically a metal rather than plastic jack. Adding a decent jumper to ground should add the shielding benefit.
Cat 6 STP is suggesting for use where there is possibility of high noise. I think a makerbot running servo motors qualifies.
Dataman does know his networking. Just too stupid to apply it to his makerbot.
ohhh ok. so then solder a lead to that metal connector housing and route that lead to a common ground away from noisy stuff hopefully right? then we'd get the benefit of partial shielding… which sounds way better than no connection shielded cable.
so… in that article they suggest only tying it to one side, but that implies two separate devices vs a satelite powered by the host.
do we connect both sides or only one side?
Both sides should be grounded, but in our case, the sattelite, platistruder, is receiving its ground through the same cable we are trying to protect, so that's not a good ground to use. Best to run a separate ground wire from something like the power supply to ground the cable.
My super Cat 6 STP (not grounded yet), well isolated, is still dropping packets. WIll let you know if grounding has any impact. Probably going to add the terminating resistors for good measure. Moving to SD has seemed to help through.
I have one terminating resistor on the extruder controller. It says on the reprap site to only have it one ONE device… maybe I misunderstood, but might be worth a look as well ;)
So - I guess the only issue with running another ground cable from the power supply is that —- well that becomes another antenna (right?) and if we run that to the EC and it picks up noise, then that would get dumped, potentially, into the whole system…
—- FWIW, I only RARELY get dropped packets any more, since I added my filter to the motor… and I'm using the supplied Cat5 cable.
I DO EEEVERY once in a while get a bad packet - but not like before.
Probably true…
But heck, it's grounded on both sides.
So it's not an antenna, it's a chassis.
We're trying to attenuate any stray signals to ground.
By whatever means.
Next question, back to calibration
Picasa has been giving me problems uploading this.
This is where I'm at the the calibration process.
Some models lay down a very thin first layer.
On long first layers I seem to get a venetian blind effect as seen here.
This catches on the second layer, forcing a head skip, or rip up of the work.
Has anyone seen this before.
Any advice…
What are your "object first layer" values set to in Raft?
220/220, as state previously in this thread.
Temperature of Shape First Layer Outline (Celcius): 220.0
Temperature of Shape First Layer Within (Celcius): 220.0
And this based on advice from:
http://wiki.makerbot.com/configuring-skeinforge
So those are pretty much the default settings,
As quoted previously this thread.
And before you ask…
Effect of ramping up to 225:
Less ribbon-like, more cable-like.
I'm not sure if the extruder is cutting out or it's just failing to stick to the raft.
Wierd.
Sages… any advice?
(Raft Settings: 225 for all but raft)
The newer versions of skeinforge let you change the feed & flow rates on the first layer after the raft/interface - those are the ones I was asking about. I thought 0006 also had those but just loaded up a copy of that and can't find them. I guess they were added afterwards.
Nothing jumps out at me as obviously wrong on your settings.. Does skeinview show anything weird on the first layer after the raft?
Even 0007 is about a year old. I'm not sure which version includes the feed/flow options for the first layer - there have been about 20 skeinforge releases since 0007.
Make sure Analyze->Skeinview is enabled, regenerate the gcode and take a look in skeinview at the first few layers. Do they look correct or are there holes like in your picture?
They do indeed but I guess it could be a rendering artifact.
Is this object you're trying to print on thingiverse? I'd like to feed it to skeinforge and see what happens..
edit: this is still the hand object you're trying to print? Is it the big one or the small one?
edit: and what's your Carve -> Extrusion Width over Thickness value set to? I don't see it above..
Thank you!
It's the small hand (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1288 hand.stl), with 1 raft layer.
(as Raft: Interface Layers (integer): 0)
I must have mangled the Carve Paste.
Damn it,
I'm going to write a utility to coordinate these settings into one frackn file.
Carve:
Extrusion Width over Thickness (ratio): 1.45
Open File to be Carved
Import Coarseness (ratio): 1.0
Correct Mesh True
Unproven Mesh False
Infill Bridge Thickness over Layer Thickness (ratio): 1.0
Infill Bridge Width over Extrusion Width (ratio): 1.0
Infill in Direction of Bridges True
Layer Thickness (mm): 0.35
Layer Thickness over Precision (ratio): 10.0
Carve: Extrusion Width over Thickness (ratio): 1.45
Speed: Extrusion Diameter over Thickness (ratio): 1.3
What is Extrusion Perimeter Width Over Thickness set to in Inset?
Try setting all 3 of those values to 1.25 and see how that prints. Don't expect it to look great - just trying to get it to the point where you can start tweaking things. Those settings will probably make it look pretty anemic.
Anemic, Shnemic,
I'd settle for a successful print!
Just got my caliper in,
Should be able to work through calibrating those parameters if the basics work.
Ok, settings were as expected:
Carve: Extrusion Width over Thickness (ratio): 1.45
Speed: Extrusion Diameter over Thickness (ratio): 1.3
Inset: Extrusion Perimeter Width Over Thickness: 1.3
Setting to all 1.25 and trying again.
Ok, happy to try that next.
Will be tied up til Wednesday though.
Thanks for sticking with me.
Figured out how to run stand alone versions of skeinforge..
Tried stock versions of 007 and 027,
With a little tweaking 007 did the same thing.
027 just doodled in mid air.
Freakn major improvements in the raft though.
For the record, I reread all the docs,
and I made sure to set my hot end height at .3mm
That's 1/2 the diameter of the thread .58mm.
The height part is not critical, when the extruder is setting the raft, you can manually move the Z axis (the middle knob on the top of the bot, where is says <- "up" and "down" ->) until you get your best result.
Raft
Base Infill Density (ratio): 0.5
Base Layer Thickness over Layer Thickness: 1.8
…and just to get the raft out of the way, you might want to change this to 0.5 and, say, 1.0. That tells it to cover 50% of the area with plastic and that the raft filament should be the same width as the objects filament.
When you adjust the Z at the very start of the raft, keep that 0.5 in mind - it thinks it's covering 50% of the area so drop the Z stage down (manually turn the pulley) until it looks like the lines are about the same width as the space between the lines..
Ok,http://wiki.makerbot.com/tips-and-tricks
Doing general maintenance, flossing the teeth, decided to swap out the spare pinchwheel motor.
Just got it in this week, might as well exercise is…
OMG! Different machine.
Realize, I've never seen a makerbot working live before, just mine,
So I didn't realize how fast the pinchwheel should be moving.
Looks like I have a Frackn DEFECTIVE pinchmotor.
Originally, the Pinchwheel was spinning pretty fast.
Now it's crawling.
Two motors' interpretations of 255 can be quite different.
Anyhow, my original motor would pause and hesitate a lot,
I thought that was normal, built into the code.
Er, NOT.
The new motor just plows on through, no stopping.
Er, DUH!!!
Anyhow, I'm a happier puppy.
Got through some complex builds.
But still one problems remains.
The head is still crashing into work completed.
Seems to be accumulative and most apparent on 3rd and 4th cross hatch.
Head it dragging through work at that point.
I think layer height is set at .36
Is setting to .37 .38 out of the question to avoid this problem?
I measure .58/.59 for extruded diameter.
Originally, the Pinchwheel was spinning pretty fast.
Er.. I thought it was about 2RPM.. How fast was yours going??
Is setting to .37 .38 out of the question to avoid this problem?
That might work but might have fallout in other areas. I'd probably increase the feed rate (not travel feed rate) a little and see how that works. I'd add 5.0 to whatever the value is now and print calibration cubes, decreasing feed rate by 1.0 each time, until you get it pretty close.
You can then move around by 0.5 increments (or decrements) and 0.25 after that but, IMO, it's not really productive to calibrate the feed rate value at finer than 0.25mm/s.
WOW!
It's a whole different bot with that new pinchwheel motorl.
The pausing problem was keeping us out of higher feed rates,
We thought it was comm-errors, no it was pinch motor errors.
Last night we stepped up from 29.5 to 40.5,
It's like going from wicker to porcelain.
I think I now know what the bot is capabale off,
(And looking at some of my earlier prints with (at 25) disgust…)
I don't have a picture on me,
But there seems to be a small error introducted at speed 36 on the 20mm alignment cube.
Seems to become more pronounced as speed is increased.
As the Z stage steps up, the head i seems to be stopped 1mm E of the SW corner.
This causes a tiny noticable gap that repeats every few mm or so.
I'll attach a picture later tonight.
This effectively causes a staircase in the cube.
Is that a known or acceptable error?
In prior cubes this was glopping,
Now that I'm printing clearly, it's chisseled steps…
So, what is the "typical" feed rate?
LOL.. Now you know why I get crabby at people who are satisfied with all the default, easy settings or ones that are even worse. (not that the default/suggested settings aren't good for what they are - they're just not a lot of detail, compared to what can be done).
I was printing at over 65mm/s last night. That's really nail-biting speed though, and not something I'd suggest for every day printing. Then again, I just recently got it moving that fast; maybe with some other changes, I'll stay there.
As the Z stage steps up, the head i seems to be stopped 1mm E of the SW corner.
Do you mean there's a pause when it goes up in Z? The newer skeinforge has an option in Speed for max Z rate (or something like that) that I turned up to 25 or 30 - that seemed to make those pauses go away. Not sure how to do it in older versions. There's also an option in there somewhere about the order it draws things - if you can get it to print the perimeter between the extra shells and infill (or something), you might be able to hide the stair step inside the object.
Ok. Makes sense to me.
Whe you say the new version of Skeinforge, I couldn't seem to just drop a new version of Skeinforge into ReplicatorG. I could generate outside of RepG with new Skeinforge, reload the model, and build. Is that what your'e doing?
If so, June 29 seems to be the latest and greatest. Is that what you're on? And again, if so, is there a basic settings file dump somewhere that I can start from? Or should I just start tuning back from square one again.
I don't use the repg-integrated one.. It'd be really, REALLY cool if they made it work with the new versions but I don't think it does.
June 29 sounds like what I'm using.. It's a drag but you should probably nuke your existing settings (or, better, back them up) and start fresh.
Also a drag is that, IMO, it's best to wade through
all the pages under http://www.bitsfrombytes.com/wiki/index.php?title=Skeinforge#Craft, which is some pretty good skeinforge docs and not too far off from the most recent versions. Take some of the info with a grain of salt; for example, he says that layer thickness should be between 0.3 and 0.5 for a 0.5mm nozzle - I've gotten far lower than 0.3 with my MBI 0.5mm nozzle.
Basically, turn off all modules unless you're at least pretty sure you need them. Tweak things that seem really far off than the params you're using now then just concentrate on layer height, perimeter width/thickness, infill width/thickness and feed rate. That'll get you a long way back towards where you are today.
And make a backup of your current settings. That way you can go back to them if you decide I'm full of it.
Not to cheat or anything?
Might I borrow your settings if you can figure that out? (zip file)
Should be a good starting point.
I would but I'm at work (er.. working hard.. really) and miles from my 'bot. I've also tweaked it for the big honkin' ABS I have (3.00mm which is, apparently, pretty big for "3mm ABS") so it might not work well on your rig.
Turn off all but carve, clip, fill, inset, multiply, raft, temperature and speed. Use the layer height, width/thickness, feed rate and flow rate from the settings you have now.
IIRC, something around .3mm for carve->layer height, 1.6 for width/thickness (in carve and fill) and maybe 35-40 for speed->feed rate should get you going. Make sure to wade through Temperature and set it all to 220C, unless you have some other favorite value to print at.
Ddurant,
I just wanted to thank you for all your help in getting my bot up and running. Sorry that I haven't replied in a few, but its been working really great the last few nights, and we've been cranking out everything that we've been dying to print for a month now. Even the stuff that I've designed and that's been dying on the lauchnpad is printing.
As a special thank you. I'm dedicating my first design to you. Thing:3563 is dedicated to you.
Even the stuff that I've designed and that's been dying on the lauchnpad is printing.
Great!! I think it was mostly you figuring out that your motor was toast but I'm happy to have helped there somewhere…
Now that you are strong in the ways of SkeinFu, you must take the prize from the current champion then find yourself an apprentice, who will one day take the prize from you.
(sorry.. i'm a bit weird today.. more than usual..)
No, mightly one, I'm sure that I'm not yet fully versed in SkeinFu. I feel a dark presence looming. (Just got my click-clack board and Heated Build Platform working, not idea the variables this is going to thow in)
Kinda makes you the QuiJan and me the ObiWan. My Padawn still looks at me a bit strangely.
