MakerBot Industries

Thanks Ed and Passim! Glad to know I am not totally incompetent… I was almost certain that this was completely my fault, at least the hardware is partly to blame. And I am getting much better with my electronics understanding thanks to this awesome hobby. A year ago I wouldn't have even attempted to try and fix the PCB! I am surprised I actually got it to work for a few minutes after digging out the trace.

Oh, and I figured out the wiring diagram. I had forgotten about the parts list section on the thingiverse entry for the Heater board. The is a key right down there that explains what kind of components C1 and R1 are! Then I looked those two parts up and radioshack has them..

So, would it be a good idea to buy a new resistor and capacitor and then wire everything up for the thermistor just like the diagram says?

I just have one issue with that… Not sure which part of the thermistor components actually determines the temperature… So I would not be sure which part I need to make sure is in good contact with the Heater board. Any tips?

Suppose I should read up on thermistors a little bit.

Sooo glad I got extra boards when they started out at $20 each on initial release. That's the only time I feel like I won as an early adopter. MK6 was a close second-only to have some remorse when MK6+ came out.

I figured at $20, there was no way I wasn't buying spares! And while $30 is more expensive, I don't consider it outrageous. That being said, I can likely fix your bad board if you were to PM me and send it to me. Go Snail mail, because we are trying to beat $30 for a new one. Worst case scenario is a 4.7k resistor and the 100 K thermistor, all soldered to an 18 inch servo extension lead, taped to the PCB with kapton (AKA the same setup being used on my 8 X 8 inch heated bed PCB on my new Mendel. I'm using gen 4 electronics on it and it is amazing!!!!! Thus, this is how I know that all you need is a 4.7 K resistor and the 100K thermocouple. The cap is supposed to reduce noise-but omission had no effect.
The thermistor is wired from ground to signal leads, the resistor is from 5 volt to signal to "pull up" the signal lead. The cap would go across ground an 5 volt power. In all, a simple circuit.

radioshack has them..

They probably won't be surface-mount parts. No problem, you can kludge through-hole parts to the existing solder pads. It's ugly and will work just fine.

Not sure which part of the thermistor components actually determines the temperature

It's the thermistor, R29, 'way out there in the middle of the board, far from the debris field… [grin]

Despite the frustration, we learn far more from failures than successes!

@Jetguy - I appreciate the offer. I may take you up on that if they get the new Heater Board out today. If not, I am going to go to radioshack, buy some of the parts and kludge something together myself. Maybe once the new board gets here, I can send it out to you.

@ED - OH jeez, don't know how I missed the "THERMISTOR" in the parts list. I thought it might have functioned like some kind of thermocouple, using some kind of composition of metals and measured resistance.

I was wondering, could I use the MK6+ safety cutoff switch thermistor or whatever it is, in such a way to replace the circuit in the heater board?

*temporarily of course*

Or is it just a thermostat and won't actually report temperature, just kind of act as a switch, that when it reaches certain temperature, break circuit type of deal?

Nope. It's a simple on/off switch that triggers at 140C.

Nope-unless you want to run at the 140C the switch is rated for. In 5 minutes you should be able to fix your current rig. Again, It's 3 wires. The thermistor goes between ground and signal. A 4.7 k resistor goes between the +5 and the signal lead near the thermistor (to elminate the wires changing the value).

On a side note, the best thing you can do for yourself is get a good temperture controlled soldering iron (not the cheapo unregulated), and learn how to use it well. This skill will support you for the rest of your life. If I could only count the numer of times a sticky situation was resolved by repairing some piece of electronics, in a remote location with no spare parts. I've been in third world countries and saved the day by being able to solder. And once you learn to solder well with good equipment, you find you can "get by" with bad equipment and good results. I've done surface mount 1206 size with a worn out unregulated iron in the field with a tip the diameter of a pencil. Once you've mastered the secret of heat flow and understand how solder migrates, you can solder anything within reason.

Cool, so I should go to radioshack, pickup the 4.7k resistor and the .1 u capacitor (I hope they have both). Because I broke C1…. I need a definite replacement for that.

I am sure I will have questions when I do this after work. I do have a temperature regulated soldering iron. I do decent through hole work, which doesn't say much because it is so damn easy. I know all the basic principles. I just don't have the experience. Like when I soldered to the trace I dug out, I couldn't figure out how to make it… sturdy, mechanically. I taped the wire with kapton to the PCB…. but, it still broke… and quick.

Just received shipping notification from MBI for new heater board…. now I just gotta hope that the USPS truck didn't already come and go at the Botcave today.

You're probably good as the UPS truck leaves late from MBI from what I can tell (9:30 PM typical).

You don't "need" the cap for it to work, just the resistor. Also, get the super thin insulated wrap wire from radioshack. I use that for all my logic point to point wires anyway.

and learn how to use it well

Seconded!

A trick I learned a long time ago: wrap the cord around your forearm, so that your hand supports only the weight of the soldering iron. It'll float in your hand and the cord won't pull it out of line.

If you're right-handed, put the iron stand to your right. Reach through the dangling loop of cord, over the top of the cord, then pick up the iron. The cord will leave the iron, go downward on the outside of your forearm, loop underneath, come up inside, and cross your forearm just below your elbow.

I had to go watch myself do that a few times, because it's a complete reflex by now: there's no other way to pick up an iron.

Try it… you'll like it!

Cool, thanks I will try the technique out Ed.

Ya, it's not UPS though, I did USPS overnight, because they deliver on Saturday and it is much cheaper too. But I just received notification from support that it will go out today! Along with my LEDs for the botbling prize! Gotta love MakerBot Industries.

Cool, they've been taking care of me this week too. Just upset I've made 4 orders this week when it all could have been one if they would tell me what they were releasing, knowing I beta test everything. I mean come on-I spoke with them twice on the phone, then they release the new motors the next day?? So both my T-O-Ms are completely apart to upgrade the aluminum plates, and the motors. At least the new RepRap with gen 4 is working, along with the Gen4 Cupcake (AKA mini T-O-M).

So I'm with you-right now waiting on a UPS truck for the motors any moment.

Woah wait what? New Motors?! How did I miss this?

Yes, the nema 17s listed now are lower resistance and inductance that work "correctly" with the drivers at 12 volts. No more skipped steps and heat problems. There are even cheaper-you just 2 for x and y.

I just ordered a Makergear Prusa. I just can't deal with the stress of not being able to print at all when something bad happens. It was a hard decision for me to make though. I was torn between another ToM, an Ultimaker, and a RepRap. It would have been Makerbot all the way, but I kind of wanted a bigger build envelope. I'm sure I'll get another ToM soon tho. Ultimaker lost out, because of the lack of the hbp(I know an easy fix, but I would rather not deal with doing it). Also, with the RepRap, it is a much shorter lead time and 500 dollars cheaper. And I have an extra hotend! But soon I will get another ToM I am sure!

If I could do it all over again from the beginning of my 3d printing life, I would still buy the Makerbot first!

lol wow from a broken HBP to another printer! I would be interested to hear your impressions of the Prusa. I started building parts for it. However I have stopped because the plans for Orca should be out by the end of this month beginning of next and I think ill just go right to that. I like the idea of variety that's why instead of another TOM I went with an Ultimaker. If you ask me you made the right choice by going with something that has a bit of a bigger envelope it gives you more options.

Ok, I have picked up parts from radioshack and being a total electronics neophyte, of course I have some questions.

1. I got 2 different types of 4.7k resistors. One type is 1/4 watt and one type is 1/2 watt. Which should I use and why?

2. I know you said that I don't really need the capacitor, but I bought some anyway. .1u… which is the kind the BOM calls for. I would prefer to put it in, because the original had it. Is there any good reason why I shouldn't install the ceramic capacitor?

3. I am very confused by this diagram, because the letters for the thermistor circuit are all jumbled together. And it is hard for me to tell what is going where on the printed circuit board itself. I can't tell if the GND trace is going under R1 or is connected to it.

So, I have prepared this diagram of my plan of attack, it is probably completely wrong…. so i will post the original photograph too, just in case someone wants to show me the proper way to hook this up.

Of course clicking on them will take you to flickr, where you can zoom in more.

Here They are:

and the original:

Thanks! I really appreciate the help!

@riftwire…. oh man! Done it again, stupid advancing technology, I always buy something and then the next minute they release something new. Oh well, probably better that I get the prusa, because new hardware usually has some problems to work out. But, let's be honest, I'll probably end up buying an orca too though.

Ya, one printer just isn't enough, I had been considering it for a while now. But this problem just inked it for me! :]

I will always love my ToM and MakerBot will probably be my favorite 3d printer vendor for many years to come. They have just been so good to me and you can tell they just really care about the community. I do feel a little guilty buying the prusa, but really MakerBot gets a good portion of my paycheck nearly every week and I have no reason to believe that they won't continue getting it! :]

But I really can't wait to design and print some of the ideas I've had that require a little more build area!